Check Simons' trajectory at the house and you might think he's been subtly subverting Dior's authority, twisting it to his own ends, imposing his own personality. The iconic Bar jacket, for instance, has been backseated. Which made tonight's show something of a surprise. The Bar silhouette was back, full-sleeved, nip-waisted. "I will always go back," Simons insisted. "I don't think that by going back I make it less mine." And, yes, he did it his way, pairing that distinctive shape with taffeta shorts, or defusing the formality of a black Bar pantsuit with a pair of flip-flops. The Dior heritage was evoked throughout the show—the low-heeled, pointed shoes quoted Roger Vivier's footwear, but, as Simons said, they were as much Siouxsie Sioux as Marie Antoinette. Dior's classic femme fleur was abstracted in shimmering, crystal-strewn florals or, most spectacularly, in the net overdresses that restrained pleated underskirts. That was Simons' artful way of addressing what he saw as the physically uncomfortable restriction of Dior's original dresses. Here, there was shape, but there was also ease.