One set of bindings is now opened, revealing white sections of thread, while new bindings are applied to seal some of the indigo work. The application of an alkaline solution of Aleurites moluccana (kemiri) oil is required to mordant the cotton for the red dye. Once the threads have been thoroughly soaked they are sun dried.
A mordant is a chemical that fixes dye to thread. Most dyers have a secret recipe, but the essentials of the process are that crushed Aleurites muloccana (kemiri) nut is saponified with lye water and mixed with various plant materials to short bearing or promote conversion to short chain fatty acids that adhere to the cotton cellulose.