As for the suits, they came in collages of checks, tweeds, and stripes, sometimes in leather and suede, here and there in transparent prints. What to make of this? For one thing, Miuccia Prada pays no heed to weather-appropriateness. In her view—which is a global one—there’s as much need for pieced fur coats in summer as there is for skimpy silk slip dresses, which she optionally layers over chunky knits. There’s the question of proportions, too—her loosened shoulder line and boxy shapes, and a series of waist-length jackets in brown suede and leather, could well prove influential.
The show ended with a siren call to Prada’s wealthiest constituencies: coats in metallic snakeskin and suede stripes, and beautifully desirable organza suits and coats decorated with outsize transparent pailletted flowers. One way or another, all those looks are destined to be broken down and distributed as trophies all over the realms of young Hollywood, the art world, weddings, and special occasions that Miuccia Prada knows so well.