Next, the couscous gets sifted through a round mesh sieve; the tiny grains falling through into a bowl below, while the larger and irregular grains are left behind. If we are making our smallest couscous, No 1. (Jajo), we coat it in a tiny film of oil and then it gets transferred to a special double-decker steamer called a kiskis in Moroccan or couscoussier in French and gently steamed three times until it is airy and light with just the tiniest whisper of a bite. If we are making one of our larger couscouses, we continue the process, adding more water, sprinkling on more semolina as needed, and rolling, rolling, rolling to slowly increase the bulk. Through this elemental process, we are able to turn out an incredible diversity of couscous sizes and textures.