I rounded a final corner and entered a low-roofed building where women were cooking over an open fire and washing clothes in buckets. Water sloshed across the cement floor under my feet as I ascended a tiny staircase up to a spacious and airy terrace. There sat Bhatt, puppet master and lord of his domain. Large and round, with a commanding presence despite his outfit of baggy sweatpants and a mended sweater, he was a man on a mission who was determined to save his home and workspace from bulldozers.