Rolling bookstores. The trains grew speedier when the TGV replaced the Mistral in 1982. But the modern lines still offer the same basic therapy-a tableau of light and blue tones of turquoise, cobalt and azure as the train roars along the viaducts toward Cannes, Antibes and nice. The view of the sheer drop form the jagged cliffs to the Mediterranean below invariable provokes a sea change in mood.