The thing to do when visiting is get up to one of the viewpoints in time to see dawn rise over Laos and the Mekong. Sealed but occasionally treacherous tracks lead up from the resorts, main road and villages on the western slopes of the summits to car parks. From here, uphill climbs of 400 to 800 metres take you to the peaks. We’d say take a flashlight but if it’s a weekend at Phu Chee Fah there’ll be so many other visitors hiking up, the path will already be well lit. Popular lookouts on a winter weekend are literally standing-room only.