It may sound like the name of an exotic liqueur - in fact, it is a thriving, bustling place, its streets are jammed with Chinese-made motorcycle taxis - and it owes its prosperity, almost entirely, to coca.
They are trying to adapt. In a smart, New York-style coffee bar, I was offered a very good cup of espresso, made with locally-grown beans.
The hope is that it is coffee, not coca, on which the region's future prosperity will be built.