Bang Krachao is emerging from its time warp as more local bike tours are offered and new establishments (boutique hotels, a coffee bar) join old stalwarts (food stalls, a floating farmers’ market). Even so, “mai pen rai” (Thai for “no problem”) could serve as the island leitmotif, according to Mr. Mueller. The laid-back feeling of Bang Krachao itself is a lure to a growing community of day-tripping Thais, cycling-loving tourists and expatriates.