Much of Pha Ngan’s development has plonked itself on the south and west sides along the only coastal roads on the island, which fan out from Thong Sala, the capital. The long, straight south coast is lined with bungalows, especially around Ban Tai and Ban Khai, to take the overspill from nearby Hat Rin, but it’s hard to recommend staying here, as the beaches are mediocre by Thai standards, and the coral reef that hugs the length of the shoreline gets in the way of swimming. The west coast, however, offers several handsome sandy bays with great sunset views, notably Hat Yao and Hat Salad.