Miuccia's own take on the familiarity factor was typically laconic: "It's a lot of things I really like." If that meant the collection wasn't one of those move-the-goalposts breakthroughs that Prada has mastered over the years, it also guaranteed this was one of her most personal and emotional offerings to date. The designer can be a perfect sphinx, but here she seemed ready to open up, to admit her frustrations and acknowledge her obsessions.