The thing to do when visiting is get up to one of the viewpoints in time to see dawn rise over Laos and the Mekong. Sealed but occasionally treacherous tracks lead up from the resorts, main road and villages on the western slopes of the summits to car parks. From here, uphill climbs of 400 to 800 metres take you to the peaks. We’d say take a flashlight but if it’s a weekend at Phu Chee Fah there’ll be so many other visitors hiking up, the path will already be well lit. Popular lookouts on a winter weekend are literally standing-room only.
For this reason we’d strongly recommend avoiding weekends, or looking at one of the quieter viewpoints apart from Phu Chee Fah itself. During weekdays many resorts are more or less closed and you’ll have less choice for eating and drinking but during Thai public holidays and cold season weekends it can turn into a circus and you’ll be paying twice as much for a chalet as well — if you can find one at all. (The proliferation of camping sites shows how busy it gets.)
The main village, Rom Fah Thai, straddles the mountain road and is entirely lined with market stalls, cafes, souvenir shops and strolling Thais wrapped up in their winter woollies, making it about as close to a ski-resort atmosphere as Thailand gets. It can get seriously cold up here, even for those from northern climes.
The smaller, much quieter village of Pathang lies towards the northern end of the range and has the equally spectacular Prathu Siam viewpoint. This is a normal, non-touristy village with just a handful of resorts and restaurants, but the views are stunning and it is a much quieter option. Resort and guesthouse owners may be able to indicate other lesser-known viewing spots as well.