Wheel assembly removed. [n the center of the hub there
Is a dust (grease) cap. Using slip-joint pliers or a special
Dust cap removal tool (Figure 42-22), wiggle the cap
Out of its recess in the hub. Now remove the cotter pin
And nut lock from the end of the spindle. loosen the
Spindle nut while supporting the brake assembly and hub.
On many vehicles you will need to remove the brake
Caliper to remove the brake disc and hub. Once the hub
Is free to come off the spindle, remove the spindle nut and
The washer behind the nut. Move the hub slightly forward,
then, push it back. This should free the outer bearing
so you can remove it. Now remove the hub assembly.
A grease seal located on the back of the hub normally
Keeps the inner bearing from falling out when the hub is
Removed. To remove the bearing assembly, the grease
Must be removed first. In most cases, all you need to do
to remove the seal is pry and pop it out of the hub. The
inner bearing should then fall out. Keep the outer bearing
and inner bearing separated if you plan on reusing
them.
Wipe the bearings and races or use brake parts
cleaner to clean them. While doing this, pay close attention
to the condition and movement of the bearings. The
bearings need to rotate smoothly. Also visually inspect
the bearings and races after they have been cleaned. Any
noticeable damage means they should be replaced. AIso
inspect the spindle. If it is damaged or excessively worn,
the steering knuckle assembly should be replaced.
Whenever a bearing is replaced, its race must also be
replaced. Races are pressed in and out of the hub. Typically
the old race can be driven out with a large drift and
a hammer. Once the race has been removed, wipe all
grease from the inside of the hub. The new race should
be installed with the proper driver.
During assembly, the bearings and hub assembly
must be thoroughly and carefully lubricated. Care must
be taken not to get grease on the brake disc or on any
part that will directly contact the disc. Always use the
recommended grease on this assembly. The grease must
be able to withstand much heat and friction. If the wrong
grease is used, it may not offer the correct protection or
it may liquefy from the heat and leak out of the seals.
The bearings should be packed with grease. It is important
that the grease is forced into and around all of
the rollers in the bearing. Merely coating the outside
of the bearing with grease will not do the job. A bearing
packer does the best job at packing in the grease. If one
is not available, force grease into the bearing with your
hand.
Install the greased inner bearing into the hub. Install
a new grease seal into the hub. To avoid damaging the
seal, use the correct size driver to press the seal into
the hub. Lubricate the spindle, then slip the hub over the
spindle. Install the outer bearing, washer and lock nut.
The lock nut should be adjusted to the exact specifications
given in the service manual (Figure 42-23). Often
it is tightened until the hub cannot rotate, then it is loosened
about one-half tum before it is set to the specified
free play. The initial tightening seats the bearings into
their races. Once the lock nut is tightened, install the nut
lock and use a new cotter pin to retain the lock.
The adjustment of the bearings can be checked with
a dial indicator. Mount the base of the indicator as close
as possible to the center of the hub. locate the tip of the
indicator’s plunger on the tip of the spindle. Set the indicator
to zero. Firmly grasp the brake disc and move it in
and out. The total movement shown on the indicator is
the amount of free play at the bearing. Compare your
reading to the specifications and make adjustments as
necessary.