New York's not in any danger yet of becoming oversaturated with Isan-style Thai restaurants the way it was oversaturated with too many gloppy-pad-thai-and-cashew-chicken spots a few years ago (some would argue that even one such restaurant is an oversaturation), but they're sure becoming more and more prevalent. For lovers of the sticky rice and spicy salad-heavy cuisine, this is a good thing.
Somtum Der first opened in Bangkok in 2012 with the promise to deliver more authentic Isan flavors to the country's centrally-located capital where most versions are modified to suit the local palate—Bangkok cuisine tends to be sweeter and milder than Lao-influenced northern Thai food. New York Thai food tends to be even sweeter and milder, so it's been fascinating and thrilling to watch the slow creep of Isan food into the city with its funkier flavors (mostly due to a more strongly fermented style of fish sauce), moderate use of sugar, and more intense heat.
Since the New York branch of Somtum Der opened in the East Village a couple months ago, I've been in four times and have tried a good chunk of the menu. Here are my thoughts on the best dishes and what to avoid.
New York's not in any danger yet of becoming oversaturated with Isan-style Thai restaurants the way it was oversaturated with too many gloppy-pad-thai-and-cashew-chicken spots a few years ago (some would argue that even one such restaurant is an oversaturation), but they're sure becoming more and more prevalent. For lovers of the sticky rice and spicy salad-heavy cuisine, this is a good thing.Somtum Der first opened in Bangkok in 2012 with the promise to deliver more authentic Isan flavors to the country's centrally-located capital where most versions are modified to suit the local palate—Bangkok cuisine tends to be sweeter and milder than Lao-influenced northern Thai food. New York Thai food tends to be even sweeter and milder, so it's been fascinating and thrilling to watch the slow creep of Isan food into the city with its funkier flavors (mostly due to a more strongly fermented style of fish sauce), moderate use of sugar, and more intense heat.Since the New York branch of Somtum Der opened in the East Village a couple months ago, I've been in four times and have tried a good chunk of the menu. Here are my thoughts on the best dishes and what to avoid.
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