For dishes like duck à l'orange (see Duck À l'Orange), in which various duck parts are cooked separately, we prefer mild, meaty Pekin duck. Often labeled Long Island duckling, Pekin is available in supermarkets, inexpensive, and easy to work with. The tender breast should be sautéed, while its muscular legs take to braising.
Native to South America and leaner than Pekin, the deeply flavored Muscovy duck takes well to roasting or stewing. For roasting, select the smaller female. The breast of the gamey Mallard, an exceptionally lean North American duck available in markets during the fall, is delicious when wrapped in bacon and smoked, which keeps the meat moist. Stew the small legs in gumbo or use them to make stocks and sauces.
The large Moulard, a cross between Muscovy and Pekin, is often fed grain to fatten its liver for foie gras. It is prized as well for its rich flesh, a result of that diet. Look for its meaty breasts, which are sold separately and labeled "magret." Sauté or grill them medium-rare like a steak.
To purchase any of these ducks whole or in parts, including rendered fat and confit, contact D'Artagnan (800/327-8246; www.dartagnan.com).
For dishes like duck à l'orange (see Duck À l'Orange), in which various duck parts are cooked separately, we prefer mild, meaty Pekin duck. Often labeled Long Island duckling, Pekin is available in supermarkets, inexpensive, and easy to work with. The tender breast should be sautéed, while its muscular legs take to braising.
Native to South America and leaner than Pekin, the deeply flavored Muscovy duck takes well to roasting or stewing. For roasting, select the smaller female. The breast of the gamey Mallard, an exceptionally lean North American duck available in markets during the fall, is delicious when wrapped in bacon and smoked, which keeps the meat moist. Stew the small legs in gumbo or use them to make stocks and sauces.
The large Moulard, a cross between Muscovy and Pekin, is often fed grain to fatten its liver for foie gras. It is prized as well for its rich flesh, a result of that diet. Look for its meaty breasts, which are sold separately and labeled "magret." Sauté or grill them medium-rare like a steak.
To purchase any of these ducks whole or in parts, including rendered fat and confit, contact D'Artagnan (800/327-8246; www.dartagnan.com).
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