There was a glint of genius in Pablo Coppola’s context-setting question for this collection, which ran: “What will the bourgeois woman in 20 years’ time want to wear?” Why genius? Well, the bourgeois woman of today is wearing a ’90s-touched but ’70s-heavy constellation of signifiers upgraded by the appropriation of post-sportswear streetwear. So it follows that a woman 20 years on will wear something heavily touched by whatever hindsight dictates is now—right now—in 2015/16, shot through with a lot from the ’90s and made relevant by technology and trends that we can’t even begin to anticipate.
Were Coppola able to answer his question he would have discovered the Holy Grail—fashion’s Flux Capacitor—a way to short-circuit the self-referential cycle of retrospection and push on into Where We Really Are. The essence of Now. So, did he?