Sure, the ingredients were there for an elegy: an imposing venue a stone's throw from the Vatican (with walls covered by framed photos of past glories), a front row of his peers (Karl, Giorgio, Donatella, Tom, Diane), and a tear-drenched audience. But with this Fall couture show, Val skipped a laurel-resting meditation on his career in favor of a strong, sleek, and shiny take on the occasion dressing he excels at. He trimmed away the volume, allowing himself but a handful of fishtail gowns, and the same sense of editing applied to the color palette, which was notably restrained: black, brown, ivory, plum, and sage, with counterpoints of pink and the designer's signature red. Lamé added a subtle sheen in draped tops and skirts.