Kumadori makeup is composed of very dramatic lines and shapes applied in colors that represent certain qualities. For instance, dark red represents passion or anger; dark blue represents depression or sadness; pink represents youth; light green represents calm; black represents fear; and purple represents nobility. The makeup and perfume worn throughout performances were highly significant to the stories that were being told.
No matter the actual style, white face paint was the foundation of kabuki makeup. The neck and face were covered in oil and then smeared with a thick white cream called oshiroi. With females, this makeup would extend down the back as well so all the exposed skin was white. This cream would make the actor’s other features disappear so the makeup artist was then free to make their face look “perfect.” They would paint on eyebrows higher than they actually were and the eyes would be outlined in either red for women or black for men. Men also applied lip rouge and black paint to make their mouth curve downward while women’s mouths were made smaller. The makeup itself was composed of rice powder, and different shades of white actually represented class, age, and even gender of the character.