UN TAKAHASHI OF UNDERCOVER TALKS TO FILEP MOTWARY
Dear iDEALS, for a while now Jun Takahashi’s works moved me in a way that only a few other designers can. Last October, I was invited by chance to a very intimate party for the launching of some candles the Japanese hipster designer created for a well known establishment of scent in Paris, CIRE TRUDON. It was clearly an opportunity for me, to finally ask Jun for an interview. To my surprise his response was positive.
Jun Takahashi, is the creative force behind the cult label Undercover, has been a well-respected creative icon in his own country for more than fifteen years.
He was internationally eluted back in 2006 after a triumphant fashion show when he sent masked models down the runway with their faces shrouded in knitted, embroidered hoods. It was his way to voice an idea about hidden beauty. He has developed his imaginative and highly technical point of view, from a small shop co-owned by NIGO (of A Bathing Ape fame) and on to international praise, the runways of Paris, and, recently, one of his experiential fashion shows as the featured guest of the Pitti Uomo trade show. Somewhere along the line, Takahashi picked up a passion for running which, along with his Tokyo-based running crew called *Gyakusou, caught the attention of athletic giant Nike.
Garnering support early on from Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons was another coup for the young designer. Takahashi, at her urging, showed his first collection in Paris in 2002 with Kawakubo sitting on the front row, a very rare moment to be remembered.
Isterografo presents a visionary creative individual and some wonderful series of photographs for UNDERCOVER’s SS11 collection.
This is what he told me one month before his first show after three entire years, which will be presented in Paris during the FW 11/12 fashion week.
FilepMotwary: What always impresses me is the fact that each of your collections does have a completely individual concept and result. From ultra glamorous refined chiffon and laces next you jump to a more casual approach and immediately after to a more refined architectural and structured silhouette..
Could you please explain?
JunTakahashi: My goal is to express what is happening in my head through art, mainly fashion-of course; there are times when I express myself through other forms of art as well - and I try to design from multiple directions by having different approaches and concepts. My selections are based on how fresh they appear to me.
Of course, it is true that I am constantly interested in various things. Therefore, when I rely on the flow of thoughts in my brain, creating art with many different themes , it seems as something that comes natural to me.
It doesn’t worry you that your clients will be surprised or that you may lose some of them for not giving them a specific UNDERCOVER “outline” OR “signature” each time?
Though I may not have an obvious signature item, it may be possible to find common qualities or feelings somewhere in each collection. That is what Undercover is about. But the common quality is nothing more than the feelings that make up Undercover’s outlook on the world and the universe.
As a young designer you influenced a lot of young people back then with your “NOWHERE” store. How did it feel back then in the early 90’s?
Because I started it haphazardly with Nigo, with whom I opened the store and at the time the movement was unexpected. But there is no question that I was extremely happy about it.
How different is the youth culture of the 90’s compared to 2011?
Because the Internet was not as widespread during the 90s, particularly in the early 90s, I think young people were more focused on collecting information than today.
It was a time when you had to make efforts to obtain what you wanted. I think the difference is that today’s young people lack of hunger.
We saw things with our own eyes, touched them, and felt them.
It was a non-virtual time back then.
How difficult it was for you to conquer Paris as a Japanese designer?
I have never been conscious about it. Who I am now is the result of pursuing what I like and believe. I realize that there is always a large risk, financial risk for example, in conducting business the way I do.
How important was Rei Kawakubo’s support in your career?
It meant a great deal to me. I was able to receive support from someone whom I respect. I feel very grateful.
The international fashion scene is always looking forward for your next collection. What is the ingredient in the philosophy of your collections that in a way won-over the crowds and the press?
First of all, if people are looking forward to the next collection that is something that makes me really happy to know.
Believe it or not, I have not participated in a fashion show for three long years.
Paris is also a place where people forget about you unless you participate in a fashion show.
The point that att