Increasing numbers of tourists are heading to Reykjavik for the city's arts scene, cool nightlife and the slew of natural wonder that lie right on its doorstep. Amid the colourful scattering of toy-like, painted houses you can gorge on the freshest fish, head out on a famously messy runtur (round tour) -the Reykjavik residents' Friday night boozy blowout - or let loose in booming nightclubs in which almost anything goes.