India’s majestic former Mughal capital is too often experienced in brief as a traveller’s day trip from Delhi to the Taj Mahal. But there’s much more to enjoy here: extravagant monuments and tombs lining the Yamuna River bank, the Taj Mahotsav arts festival held in February and the crumbling Mughal gardens dotted across the city. The nearby deserted city of Fatehpur Sikri, one of the city’s three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, is an eerie escape from Agra’s chaotic centre.