Less-starry eyed was Mark Twain, who in 1878 began his European travels with a three-month stay in Heidelberg, recounting his bemused observations in A Tramp Abroad. For some deliciously acerbic excerpts from his writing, see www.mark-twain-in-heidelberg.de.
Heidelberg’s Altstadt has a red-roofed townscape of remarkable architectural unity. After having been all but destroyed by French troops under Louis XIV (1690s), it was built pretty much from scratch during the 18th century. Unlike the vast majority of German cities, it emerged from WWII almost unscathed. Today, Heidelberg is one of Germany’s most romantic cities – and the romance builds the longer you stay: the more you wander around, the more unexpected beauty and heartstopping panoramas you’ll discover.