Apparel design research includes not only the activities of designing and creating garments but
also documentation as a critical tool for reflection on and analysis of process. In addition, determining
and investigating context is a critical first step to transforming design production into
design research. One element of context can include historically informed analysis as a framework to examine studio design practice. As a designer/artist working with engineered digital textile
prints for apparel, development of garment patterns that allow large expanses of cloth for surface
design has been central to the creative process. Discovery of a historical coat patent designed to be
cut from a single pattern piece opened up a new avenue of creative exploration for both garment
shape and surface design. The purpose of this research was thus to examine U.S. historical garment
patents to identify patternmaking explorations that could inform current design practice, with a
focus on those with minimal pattern pieces. In addition, these patents offered an opportunity to
consider pattern shape from the perspective of efficiency in fabric usage with engineered digital
textile design. The research objectives were to analyze the patterns for shape and accuracy of fit, to
evaluate them as a beginning point to inform future patternmaking and design approaches, to engineer
complex digital prints on a single pattern canvas, and to create aesthetically appealing designs
that could be produced with minimal fabric waste. An additional strategy was to reorient design
development to make patternmaking, stitching, and print design creative considerations from the
beginning, eliminating sketching as a first step. Thus, design of the garment pattern led the creative
process.