when you visit the central california town called moss beach. arrive at high tide, and you may wonder what the town's founders were thinking when they named it, for there is no sing of a beach in any direction. the pacific ocean swells up to meet the land, and waves break against high sandston cliffs. but don't let disappiontment drive you away. follow the path that leads atop the cliff. from there you'll have a sweeping view of the coastline, and if the season is right, you may see whales or dolphins offshore. find a comfortable spot and settle in to observe. over the next few hours the tide will slowly receds and expose a narrow strip of multicolored sand at the foot of the cliff. you might not find this miniature beach impressive at first, but keep watching. at moss beach the magic being just where the sand ends.