Physics are important to handling. But an improperly tuned car will realistically handle horribly. This is designed to help you tune any car to best suite your driving style and get the most out of it. I will not share a tune because no two people are the same and what works for me will not work for you. Instead i am going to teach you how to make your own setup.
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Section 1: tires and mechanical parts.
Tires: Each tire is different. A tall sidewall tire will be bouncy by nature because it has no sidewall stiffness, only air pressure. Sidewall stiffness and air pressure are a spring rate. We will cover this aspect later. But what you need to know about low profile tires is that the sidewall construction varies greatly from one brand of tire to the next. Some manufacturers like continental have very soft sidewalls and will require more tire pressure as such. Brands like Toyo use very stiff sidewalls and requre less pressure to keep them flat to the ground. The grip of the tire matters alot also if you are using them for drifting. It works like this, a low grip tire will be easier to drift because its breakaway point is lower and the difference in grip between road holding and sliding is very little making them easy to control in a drift. The opposite is true of a grippy tire. The more grip you have the harder they become to control and the "snappier" they become. The hardness of the rubber also affects the peak grip angle. Harder rubber = lower peak angle = more precise but easier to slide. These are all factors you should consider when picking a brand of tire.
Transmission/Gear ratios: Usually you are stuck with stock gearing, if you are lucky enough to be able to change the rear end gear, you want top gear to just be able to hit redline on the track you are driving ideally in a lower powered car, with higher hp longer gears tend to be better. For drifting you want to be in 2nd or 3rd gear occasionally 4th if you have the power of god lol. If you can adjust each gear individually you want them to be evenly spaced, the more hp you have the more space you want between them.
Brakes: 60% usually means rears lock first. This can replace an ebrake if you cant utilize one. But is EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS AND NOT RECOMMENDED. Most stock cars are between 62 and 67% making the fronts lock first but just. I prefer 70 - 75% for drifting so that i can lock the front tires if needed to act as an anti e-brake in a way. If i feel im going to spin or need to straighten out a quick slam of the brakes brings teh car quickly in line. Keep them at 100% strength unless you HAVE to reduce them. Ebrakes are typically around 75% from the factory. This means you have to use the regular brake and the ebrake together for it to work right most of the time. Hydro brings it up to full strength and is only suggested for pro drift use.
Steering Lock: Stock lock is good for grip driving but lets face it its very limited in drifting use. Low angle drifting only. Street cars have ackerman making the inside tire turn farther than the outside tire. This degree of lock is based on the outside tire. Though the outside tire may only go to lets say 48* the inside tire is likely approaching 60*. The only way to fix this and get even more lock is by cutting the spindles and reducing ackerman giving a more parallel steering. Parallel steering need toe to be stable because it doesnt have ackerman to supplement it. I'll get into toe later. Higher lock can also mean overly sensitive steering making it hard to hold a straight line or to control the car.
Weight distribution: 53/47 is the perfect balance for a FR car. More front weight will make the car turn in faster and have oversteer on turn in but will exhibit a mid corner push. For this reason more front weight is actually better in a drift car as it gives you the turn in you need and the mid drift stability you desire. Heavier rear ends can cause understeer at turn in and oversteer at mid corner and under braking.
Mass: A heavier car has more inertia and will rotate more slowly but with more force meaning its easier to control but god help you if you let it get out of control. A lighter car will be "snappy" and a heavy car will be "floaty"
Limited Slip Differential: Pump only exists on high end indy cars and some rally cars so forget about it. Anything other than 0 is unrealistic and not wise either it will over rotate the car. Open diffs and viscous or torsen/helical lsd's (25% power and coast, 0 preload) are best for grip racing and any car with stock steering lock as the inside tires spinning faster will help keep the car from spinning out from wheelspin. Yes you can still drift this way just use momentum. Locked or welded or spool diffs (100% power and coast preload is irreleavent) are only recommended for drifting as they will cause nasty understeer and make the car rotate like crazy with wheelspin but will give the most forward bite. 55% power 25% coast is the ultimate grip diff for race cars. 55% power and coast is the ultimate drift diff as it will give you most of the forward bite of a locked diff and none of the understeer and will be perfectly balanced. Preload of 100nm is going to make the diff very stiff feeling and make the car feel tight. In rf its hard to say where this is on most mods since they use generic settings like 1-10 etc. Lower preload will make the car more maneuverable, higher will make the car more stable and understeery.
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Section 2: Suspension, tire psi and reading the tire temps.
It is important to know here, because everything from here on rely's on this principle, that the car is viewed as 4 contact patches. Whatever end of the car has the most rubber in contact with the pavement under the most force will have the most grip. In cornering the outside of the car is bearing the load. The wieght follows the path the inertia takes it. If a car dips its outside front that means its lifting its inside rear and vice versa. Two front tires and one rear tire = very loose. Two rear tires and one front tire = very tight. it helps to visualize a car as it sits and how the forces will affect the car and the way it moves the suspension. Forces can make the car go front back side side and both diagonals. More force on a tire = more grip at that tire. Force on a tire only affects grip at a 85% ratio so for that reason the less a car rolls in a corner the more grip it will have as it will utilize the inside tires more. Also with anything the harder or stiffer it is the more responsive it is. Also shocks control the springs. They slow them down. That is all they do. That is important to think about.
Tire Pressure: Based on what tire you picked and the total mass and weight distribution of the car the tire pressures will vary. It is not expected for you to be the physics guru and the master mathmatician to be able to figure out the exact psi for each tire... That's why we have tire temp readouts. If your tire pressure is correct, after you do a run on them the middle of each tire should be the median of the inside and outside edges. So if say the outside is 170 and the inside is 160, themiddle should be 165. If the middle is the lowest temp on the tire you need to increase the pressure of the tire. If the middle is the hottest you need to lower the pressure. Also pressure as stated before affects the spring rate of the tire. A stiffer rate = less grip at that tire. So if you are suffering from terminal understeer you may be able to fix the problem by lowering the front tire psi by a pound or two and raising the rear by a pound or two. But dont stray too far or you will once again lose grip due to having the tire too over or underinflated. ALWAYS find the optimal pressure before adjusting for balance. NEVER stray more than a few psi from optimal. Lower tire pressure will give more grip as long as its in range but will make the steering more dull and less responsive. My tires are all optimal in the 35-45 psi range when hot depending on brand and vehicle mass.
Sway Bars: Whatever end of the car is the stiffest will slide first. So a bigger front bar will promote stability and understeer and vice versa. Having bigger bars in general, whatever the balance will increase steering response and softer bars will make the car react slower. For very hilly twisty tracks havin them too stiff will cause irregularities in the handling due to the car going on 3 wheels basically in the transitions.
Spring rates: Just as with the sway bars, The end of the car with the stiffest spring will have the least grip. Remember if the car leans more on one end than the other then the end with the least amount of give will have less force on the inside tire and will have less total grip. Spring rates also should be matched to how bumpy a given track is. If a track is very smooth the stiffer teh springs the better, untill you start feeling the bumps. If you can feel the bumps they are upsetting the car and causing loss of grip and your springs are too stiff. The springs are the biggest factor in steering response besides the tires.
Bump: Also known as compression. The spring wont absorb the bump as well with harder compression or "bump" setting so it will cause the car to react to the bump more. The front and rear are going to be different here. In the front end compression affects turn in and braking. Harder compression will cause stability and understeer under braking and turn in as the front of the car will not lean into the turn as fast. it has no affect on any othe partof the turn. In the rear harder compression will only affect the exit of the turn or when you accelerate in the corner and will cause oversteer under acceleration. Softer settings will have the opposite affect on all accounts.
Physics are important to handling. But an improperly tuned car will realistically handle horribly. This is designed to help you tune any car to best suite your driving style and get the most out of it. I will not share a tune because no two people are the same and what works for me will not work for you. Instead i am going to teach you how to make your own setup.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Section 1: tires and mechanical parts.
Tires: Each tire is different. A tall sidewall tire will be bouncy by nature because it has no sidewall stiffness, only air pressure. Sidewall stiffness and air pressure are a spring rate. We will cover this aspect later. But what you need to know about low profile tires is that the sidewall construction varies greatly from one brand of tire to the next. Some manufacturers like continental have very soft sidewalls and will require more tire pressure as such. Brands like Toyo use very stiff sidewalls and requre less pressure to keep them flat to the ground. The grip of the tire matters alot also if you are using them for drifting. It works like this, a low grip tire will be easier to drift because its breakaway point is lower and the difference in grip between road holding and sliding is very little making them easy to control in a drift. The opposite is true of a grippy tire. The more grip you have the harder they become to control and the "snappier" they become. The hardness of the rubber also affects the peak grip angle. Harder rubber = lower peak angle = more precise but easier to slide. These are all factors you should consider when picking a brand of tire.
Transmission/Gear ratios: Usually you are stuck with stock gearing, if you are lucky enough to be able to change the rear end gear, you want top gear to just be able to hit redline on the track you are driving ideally in a lower powered car, with higher hp longer gears tend to be better. For drifting you want to be in 2nd or 3rd gear occasionally 4th if you have the power of god lol. If you can adjust each gear individually you want them to be evenly spaced, the more hp you have the more space you want between them.
Brakes: 60% usually means rears lock first. This can replace an ebrake if you cant utilize one. But is EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS AND NOT RECOMMENDED. Most stock cars are between 62 and 67% making the fronts lock first but just. I prefer 70 - 75% for drifting so that i can lock the front tires if needed to act as an anti e-brake in a way. If i feel im going to spin or need to straighten out a quick slam of the brakes brings teh car quickly in line. Keep them at 100% strength unless you HAVE to reduce them. Ebrakes are typically around 75% from the factory. This means you have to use the regular brake and the ebrake together for it to work right most of the time. Hydro brings it up to full strength and is only suggested for pro drift use.
Steering Lock: Stock lock is good for grip driving but lets face it its very limited in drifting use. Low angle drifting only. Street cars have ackerman making the inside tire turn farther than the outside tire. This degree of lock is based on the outside tire. Though the outside tire may only go to lets say 48* the inside tire is likely approaching 60*. The only way to fix this and get even more lock is by cutting the spindles and reducing ackerman giving a more parallel steering. Parallel steering need toe to be stable because it doesnt have ackerman to supplement it. I'll get into toe later. Higher lock can also mean overly sensitive steering making it hard to hold a straight line or to control the car.
Weight distribution: 53/47 is the perfect balance for a FR car. More front weight will make the car turn in faster and have oversteer on turn in but will exhibit a mid corner push. For this reason more front weight is actually better in a drift car as it gives you the turn in you need and the mid drift stability you desire. Heavier rear ends can cause understeer at turn in and oversteer at mid corner and under braking.
Mass: A heavier car has more inertia and will rotate more slowly but with more force meaning its easier to control but god help you if you let it get out of control. A lighter car will be "snappy" and a heavy car will be "floaty"
Limited Slip Differential: Pump only exists on high end indy cars and some rally cars so forget about it. Anything other than 0 is unrealistic and not wise either it will over rotate the car. Open diffs and viscous or torsen/helical lsd's (25% power and coast, 0 preload) are best for grip racing and any car with stock steering lock as the inside tires spinning faster will help keep the car from spinning out from wheelspin. Yes you can still drift this way just use momentum. Locked or welded or spool diffs (100% power and coast preload is irreleavent) are only recommended for drifting as they will cause nasty understeer and make the car rotate like crazy with wheelspin but will give the most forward bite. 55% power 25% coast is the ultimate grip diff for race cars. 55% power and coast is the ultimate drift diff as it will give you most of the forward bite of a locked diff and none of the understeer and will be perfectly balanced. Preload of 100nm is going to make the diff very stiff feeling and make the car feel tight. In rf its hard to say where this is on most mods since they use generic settings like 1-10 etc. Lower preload will make the car more maneuverable, higher will make the car more stable and understeery.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Section 2: Suspension, tire psi and reading the tire temps.
It is important to know here, because everything from here on rely's on this principle, that the car is viewed as 4 contact patches. Whatever end of the car has the most rubber in contact with the pavement under the most force will have the most grip. In cornering the outside of the car is bearing the load. The wieght follows the path the inertia takes it. If a car dips its outside front that means its lifting its inside rear and vice versa. Two front tires and one rear tire = very loose. Two rear tires and one front tire = very tight. it helps to visualize a car as it sits and how the forces will affect the car and the way it moves the suspension. Forces can make the car go front back side side and both diagonals. More force on a tire = more grip at that tire. Force on a tire only affects grip at a 85% ratio so for that reason the less a car rolls in a corner the more grip it will have as it will utilize the inside tires more. Also with anything the harder or stiffer it is the more responsive it is. Also shocks control the springs. They slow them down. That is all they do. That is important to think about.
Tire Pressure: Based on what tire you picked and the total mass and weight distribution of the car the tire pressures will vary. It is not expected for you to be the physics guru and the master mathmatician to be able to figure out the exact psi for each tire... That's why we have tire temp readouts. If your tire pressure is correct, after you do a run on them the middle of each tire should be the median of the inside and outside edges. So if say the outside is 170 and the inside is 160, themiddle should be 165. If the middle is the lowest temp on the tire you need to increase the pressure of the tire. If the middle is the hottest you need to lower the pressure. Also pressure as stated before affects the spring rate of the tire. A stiffer rate = less grip at that tire. So if you are suffering from terminal understeer you may be able to fix the problem by lowering the front tire psi by a pound or two and raising the rear by a pound or two. But dont stray too far or you will once again lose grip due to having the tire too over or underinflated. ALWAYS find the optimal pressure before adjusting for balance. NEVER stray more than a few psi from optimal. Lower tire pressure will give more grip as long as its in range but will make the steering more dull and less responsive. My tires are all optimal in the 35-45 psi range when hot depending on brand and vehicle mass.
Sway Bars: Whatever end of the car is the stiffest will slide first. So a bigger front bar will promote stability and understeer and vice versa. Having bigger bars in general, whatever the balance will increase steering response and softer bars will make the car react slower. For very hilly twisty tracks havin them too stiff will cause irregularities in the handling due to the car going on 3 wheels basically in the transitions.
Spring rates: Just as with the sway bars, The end of the car with the stiffest spring will have the least grip. Remember if the car leans more on one end than the other then the end with the least amount of give will have less force on the inside tire and will have less total grip. Spring rates also should be matched to how bumpy a given track is. If a track is very smooth the stiffer teh springs the better, untill you start feeling the bumps. If you can feel the bumps they are upsetting the car and causing loss of grip and your springs are too stiff. The springs are the biggest factor in steering response besides the tires.
Bump: Also known as compression. The spring wont absorb the bump as well with harder compression or "bump" setting so it will cause the car to react to the bump more. The front and rear are going to be different here. In the front end compression affects turn in and braking. Harder compression will cause stability and understeer under braking and turn in as the front of the car will not lean into the turn as fast. it has no affect on any othe partof the turn. In the rear harder compression will only affect the exit of the turn or when you accelerate in the corner and will cause oversteer under acceleration. Softer settings will have the opposite affect on all accounts.
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