sing-sang a childish voice with lines picked from chief Si'ahl's 1854 address. Unlike previous seasons, there was a raw intensity here that belied the levity of models padding around barefoot. The most viable looks were easy to pick out — a white skirt with a curved slit on front and back, a coat dress belted to the side — many of which played with his asymmetrical tailoring. Elsewhere, he played with knots and grommets, sliding fabric around the body as easily as makeup created sideway faces.