Sfoglini currently uses are from Italy, they'll soon be made by a company located in no surprise here-Brooklyn, specifically D. Maldari & Sons, which goes back 100 years and advertises itself as "the largest macaroni die manufacturing firm in the western hemisphere. After Steve cuts the pasta to Matt's specifications, the reginetti, still warm from the extruder, goes into a covered plastic tub, where it will steam a bit, keeping it supple. "It cooks so much nicer this way," says Matt, as he helps him self to enough pasta to serve tonight's guests. Back at the restaurant, where the ragu is slowly sim- mering, Matt cooks the pasta in less water than you might expect. "You need a large amount of water for dried pasta so that the water will rapidly come back up to temperature after the pasta is added, he explains. But because fresh pasta cooks so quickly, that's not as important. A bonus: The cooking water which Matt will use to moisten the pasta when he tosses it with his sauce, becomes starchy and helps the cling. By the time their guests assemble, the fog has burned off and it's a sunny 60-degree day. Tables are pushed together, wine is poured, and dinner is served. The food, though simple, is utterly delicious, and folks enjoy every last bit of it. The full flavors, bright colors, and beguiling mix of textures make it exciting, kind of like Brooklyn.