They were entering then the tougher, brighter but darker quay, and
passing the fun-fair stood for a moment in the full yellow glare of a large restaurant.
This was again sea-food restaurant- but it was bigger, noisier, brasher, browner,
brassier and probably better than those on the other side. Its walls inside were
mirrored, its paint and its furniture were of good weatherbeaten l:>rown, its lights
were weak-bulbed and so the yellower, though there were many of them: whereas
on the other side of the port carefully printed menus were displayed, here great
black slates had been scraped, as if something special had that very moment been
cooked or come in, with a brio of chalk: In fact it was a more old-fashioned engine
altogether, its yellow glare on to the dark street was more like the light of a naphtha
flare than electric, and it was full, full, full of people crammed together inside among
its mirrors and outside under its huge awning, all eating fast among waitresses yelling,
running and sometimes if there was time laughing. Plenty of gold in the teeth of
these waitresses, and dark strain beneath their eyes- they touted for customers,
"beck~ning the street at top-voice, and then had to rush back and serve them, both