1. Connect. Whether I’m working on a collection or creating a special commission piece of jewelry for a couple that’s come in to my studio, I always have meaning in my work. Having a human connection with my clients is critical. Knowing that a piece of jewelry will be symbolic of a couple’s story, their love, or an important milestone in their lives is an exciting privilege that inspires me to create something precious and breath-taking. Once that connection is made, the flow of creative energy kicks in and I’m ready to design!
2. Visualize. The second step in the design process is visualizing the piece through drawings. My sketches can go through several stages of tightening before they’re finalized. Often a new piece requires the use of CAD software to map out 3-D elements. In these instances, we are able to produce a sample in silver to give our clients a better idea of how the final version will look. Other pieces may require a more traditional process involving a master model’s handwork. Sometimes the sketching stage can be a hybrid of traditional and modern techniques. Embracing the traditional and the modern helps us achieve the best results for our clients.
3. Cut. A lapidary (stonecutter) is crucial in the design process early on. At the stone-cutting stage, the lapidary uses our finalized sketch to cut and prepare the precious stones accordingly. Once the gemstones are ground, cut, buffed and polished, we’re ready to move to the next step: Modeling.
4. Model. During this stage, we calibrate all the gemstones for measurements, specify settings and prepare a model of the piece via direct metal or wax carving. Often there, a casting process is required, but sometimes we use wires and hammer sheets of metal – the old-school method!
5. Assemble & Set. When the models are finalized, we move on to creating the actual piece in gold or platinum. At this point, an assembler produces and cleans all settings. We then give it to our stonesetter to groove the seat of the mounting and start setting the stones. Stonesetters are like surgeons – they absolutely must have a steady hand and a meticulous eye. They also must be perfectionists in order to correctly and symmetrically trim the prongs of tiny claws that secure precious stones such as opals and diamonds. There is no way to bluff excellent (or hideous) pave work on any piece of jewelry! That’s why we only work with the best, most experienced setters.
6. Polish. Now, the piece is ready for the polishing stage. This is when the metal becomes smooth and shiny, all impurities are steamed off, and all remaining sharp edges are buffed away with a polishing wheel and/or an ultrasonic chemical cleaner and tightened.
7. Double-check. Almost done! After the polishing stage, a second check point is necessary, especially if the piece contains many small stones. It’s not uncommon for one or two stones to become slightly loose from the vibration of the polishing wheel or the ultrasonic cleaner. That’s why we always double-check!
8. Quality Assurance. At the end of the process, we wrap the new piece in white tissue and proceed with a final inspection with white gloves and a triple loupe. The piece must pass Quality Assurance and meet our level of excellence before going out the door onto the selling floor or shipping to a client.
9. The Finished Product. The Grand Finale! This is my favorite step – seeing my clients walk away with the piece of their dreams is the reason I do this every day!