We're northwest of the city, where the land flattens out—long low barns, wildflowers, fields like line drawings. It's a Sunday morning in early August, the weather unseasonably cool. The racetrack is here at Montreal's enormous second airport, Mirabel, built in the '70s and abandoned three decades later. Cargo planes still fly in and out. But that's more or less it, except for the Circuit ICAR racetrack—built right out by the runway, 2.11 miles long, sixteen increasingly sharp, increasingly terrifying turns.