When people started talking about “sustainable restaurants” a few years ago, it sounded like a contradiction in terms. Restaurants are institutions founded on waste. That’s what makes eating out a luxury. No one tells you what to eat or nags you to finish. The menu is a magic card promising to grant your every whim.
Yet the concept of sustainable restaurants is stubbornly growing. When it was founded, the Sustainable Restaurants Association had just 32 members. Now there are more than 4000, including big chains such as Carluccio's and Costa. On 23 February it was the association’s fourth annual awards, hosted by its president, Raymond Blanc, who said he rates them above Michelin stars.