We were headed 111km southeast of Sarajevo into the highlands to Lukomir, Bosnia’s highest and most remote village and a little window into the country’s past. Here, villagers still wear traditional hand-knitted clothing and tend their flocks as they have for centuries. The village was one of only two in these highlands that survived the razed-earth offensive of the Serbian forces, who destroyed 13 such villages in the region. Lukomir means “harbour of peace”– a name that has remained relevant in the historically contentious Balkan country.