When he saw Erik Weihenmayer arrive that afternoon, Pasquale Scaturro began to have misgivings about the expedition he was leading. Here they were on the first floor of Mount Everest, and Erik—the reason for the whole trip—was stumbling into Camp 1 bloody, sick and dehydrated. “He was literally green,” says fellow climber and teammate Michael O’Donnell. “He looked like George Foreman had beat really badly him for two hours.” The beating had actually been administered by Erik’s climbing partner, Luis Benitez. Erik had slipped into the crevasse, and as Benitez reached down to catch him, his climbing pole raked Erik across the nose and chin. Wounds heal slowly at that altitude because of the thin air.