“Everything we’re doing is about going forward,”[1] Phoebe Philo told Vogue in 2009, shortly before showing her first collection for Céline. Although the label had garnered headlines when it was revived by Michael Kors in the late nineties, it was Philo who truly brought the till-then-somewhat-somnambulant luxury house to the forefront. Critics credited her with pushing fashion in a new direction, towards a more spare, stripped-down kind of sophistication. What Céline now offered women was, as the magazine put it, “a grown-up and hip way to put themselves together.”[2]