Makaha is Hawaiian beach that is often a risk of safety for tourists. There are many stories of visiting surfers being chased from the water here. after breaking some unwritten rule. I didn’t want that to happen to me. I saw what appeared to be an unclaimed wave. But just as I approached, teenager got on the same wave and pushed me off.
Makaha has a group of older men that act as guardians in the community. They are called “uncles”. The most famous uncle is Richard. He was the first person who ran started a surfing contest and told me about a very talented surfer with a troubled past named “Uncle Buff”. Later, I met Paishon and we went to 9) _______. He joined the dozen surfers already in the water and was quickly seen as being the best.