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Several other trade secrets, though, were revealed to the man from La Stampa. The first was, “Always do something different from the others.” Nutella was a case in point. The basic gianduja paste, ground hazelnuts with a little cocoa, had been known in northern Italy since Napoleonic times. His father Pietro, who ran a corner café and pastry-shop in the small town of Alba, had revived this idea in the second world war when cocoa was hard to get. Finding the perfect blend became a passion, and the teenage Michele caught it too as his father laboured in a back room, running out at all hours to test sweet spoonfuls on his wife and sons with the cry, “What do you think?” The paste was sold in solid loaves at first, then, as semi-solid “Supercrema”, in jars; but Michele, taking over the recipe after his father’s death in 1949, did what no one else had, and added enough drops of vegetable oil to make it beautifully spreadable. The result was revolutionary: chocolate-eating transformed from a special event to something everyday, children lining up after school in bakers’ shops to get it smeared on bread, and by the late 1950s a fleet of 1,000 cream-and-chocolate vans criss-crossing Italy to keep shops supplied. In 1964 he invented the name Nutella and the glass jar, and the rest was history.
AdvertisementSeveral other trade secrets, though, were revealed to the man from La Stampa. The first was, “Always do something different from the others.” Nutella was a case in point. The basic gianduja paste, ground hazelnuts with a little cocoa, had been known in northern Italy since Napoleonic times. His father Pietro, who ran a corner café and pastry-shop in the small town of Alba, had revived this idea in the second world war when cocoa was hard to get. Finding the perfect blend became a passion, and the teenage Michele caught it too as his father laboured in a back room, running out at all hours to test sweet spoonfuls on his wife and sons with the cry, “What do you think?” The paste was sold in solid loaves at first, then, as semi-solid “Supercrema”, in jars; but Michele, taking over the recipe after his father’s death in 1949, did what no one else had, and added enough drops of vegetable oil to make it beautifully spreadable. The result was revolutionary: chocolate-eating transformed from a special event to something everyday, children lining up after school in bakers’ shops to get it smeared on bread, and by the late 1950s a fleet of 1,000 cream-and-chocolate vans criss-crossing Italy to keep shops supplied. In 1964 he invented the name Nutella and the glass jar, and the rest was history.
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