True Smiles" was the counsel on the backstage notice board, with a scattering of smiley faces to reinforce the message. Issey Miyake is the happiest house in fashion, at least as it presents itself on the catwalk; a spirit of unbridled optimism is continually refracted through collections that charm and intrigue. The impish Yoshiyuki Miyamae, the label's latest standard-bearer, seems so ideally suited to his post, it's as though he were made in a lab just for the job. Would that all trains of fashion succession ran so smoothly.