The world of aromatic essences is a rich and entangled one. On the one hand, the varied and intricate methods and products derived from natural materials. On the other, the many chemically-produced essences (nonetheless beautiful, sometimes) reproduced or even envisioned anew in the lab. Both worlds bring their own magic to perfumery, but wading the waters can become tricky. Here is a short but concise guide to making your way through the glossary of perfume terms referring to aroma extraction and essence production for use in perfumery.
The term "aroma extraction" refers to the extraction of aromatic compounds from raw materials, using methods such as distillation, solvent extraction, expression or enfleurage. Depending on the ratio of butter to aromatic compound, the etymology of the produced essences (essential oil, concrete, absolute, butter etc.) explains their properties. To a certain extent these procedures are damaging: they denature the aromatic compounds, either by changing their odor profile or sometimes by rendering them totally odorless! This has to do with the materials themselves, as often they have so little volatile oil that they do not yield a sufficient crop (lily of the valley and gardenia are good examples of this), or their chemical compounds are too delicate to withstand certain techniques (jasmine and tuberose had resisted for centuries, until the enfleurage technique—see below—was first used).
The world of aromatic essences is a rich and entangled one. On the one hand, the varied and intricate methods and products derived from natural materials. On the other, the many chemically-produced essences (nonetheless beautiful, sometimes) reproduced or even envisioned anew in the lab. Both worlds bring their own magic to perfumery, but wading the waters can become tricky. Here is a short but concise guide to making your way through the glossary of perfume terms referring to aroma extraction and essence production for use in perfumery.The term "aroma extraction" refers to the extraction of aromatic compounds from raw materials, using methods such as distillation, solvent extraction, expression or enfleurage. Depending on the ratio of butter to aromatic compound, the etymology of the produced essences (essential oil, concrete, absolute, butter etc.) explains their properties. To a certain extent these procedures are damaging: they denature the aromatic compounds, either by changing their odor profile or sometimes by rendering them totally odorless! This has to do with the materials themselves, as often they have so little volatile oil that they do not yield a sufficient crop (lily of the valley and gardenia are good examples of this), or their chemical compounds are too delicate to withstand certain techniques (jasmine and tuberose had resisted for centuries, until the enfleurage technique—see below—was first used).
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