You had to wonder how many audience members entering the Roseland Ballroom under a ceiling hung with models of large black birds in flight knew that the collective noun for such a thing is "a murder of crows." That factoid might have helped them come to grips with the subsequent presentation of Y-3's latest range.
The Yohji-Adidas collaboration is what it is—a pragmatic collection of high-functioning sportswear injected with a judicious dose of fashion sense (the shawl collar on a sweater, zipped cuffs and tabbed ankles, red accents, a nylon hoodie rendered in gingham). The show, on the other hand, was a shadow-drenched extravaganza that elevated the notion of noir (the collection's stated theme) into a full-on vision of violence. A murder of crows, indeed. That bird showed up knitted into the back of large black or white sweaters, or as the feathers that ran across the shoulders of a jacket or down the side seams of a pair of combat pants. A capelet of black feathers draped one of Yohji's signature cutaway jackets. Dueling pistols were knitted into a cardigan or beaded on a pair of pants, and one trenchcoat featured the motif of a single hand clutching a dagger, also picked out in beads. In light of the overall theme of the collection, these pieces seemed incongruous at best.
You had to wonder how many audience members entering the Roseland Ballroom under a ceiling hung with models of large black birds in flight knew that the collective noun for such a thing is "a murder of crows." That factoid might have helped them come to grips with the subsequent presentation of Y-3's latest range.The Yohji-Adidas collaboration is what it is—a pragmatic collection of high-functioning sportswear injected with a judicious dose of fashion sense (the shawl collar on a sweater, zipped cuffs and tabbed ankles, red accents, a nylon hoodie rendered in gingham). The show, on the other hand, was a shadow-drenched extravaganza that elevated the notion of noir (the collection's stated theme) into a full-on vision of violence. A murder of crows, indeed. That bird showed up knitted into the back of large black or white sweaters, or as the feathers that ran across the shoulders of a jacket or down the side seams of a pair of combat pants. A capelet of black feathers draped one of Yohji's signature cutaway jackets. Dueling pistols were knitted into a cardigan or beaded on a pair of pants, and one trenchcoat featured the motif of a single hand clutching a dagger, also picked out in beads. In light of the overall theme of the collection, these pieces seemed incongruous at best.
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