I just spent a sublime 24 hours at Echaurren in Ezcaray, Rioja, Spain. I can say without hesitation that the last day has been the most memorable, and most enjoyable travel experience I've had to date (and I've been fortunate enough to travel a lot in my life).
We arrived in the afternoon after a beautiful car ride through Rioja, and checked in to the hotel. Our rooms were clean, spacious, full of light, and very comfortable, and the staff was courteous and helpful, even assisting with a special surprise we’d arranged for a friend at dinner. We relaxed on the upstairs terrace until dinner, and enjoyed the free WiFi that was available throughout the hotel.
Within Echaurren, there are two restaurants, one named Echaurren like the hotel, and one named El Portal. Both are owned by the same family that owns the hotel, with different styles of cuisine. Echaurren is more traditional cuisine, and is run by the mother of the family, and El Portal is more experimental, and is run by Francis Paniego, her son. We chose to eat at El Portal, and we were extremely happy with that decision.
The food was stunning, both in flavor and in presentation. We chose the longer of the two tasting menus, which was 10 courses, and included fresh and unusual ingredients from local producers. As each course came out, we were continually impressed with the attention to detail in the combination of flavors, colors and textures. Having eaten a few days ago at both Mugaritz and Arzak in San Sebastian, we were very happy to find that the food at El Portal met and even surpassed some of the dishes at those two amazing restaurants. The service was attentive without being overwhelming, and every request was accommodated graciously.
After our meal, the chef (Francis) came out to greet us, and then gave us a kitchen tour where we saw the unique setup of having the kitchens for two separate restaurants in one space. He then offered us a drink on the downstairs terrace, and shared the five generation history of his family’s ownership of the hotel and restaurants. Francis was a wonderful, down-to-earth host, who was constantly checking in with all his guests to ensure that they had everything they needed. Taking this amazing hospitality, along with the quality of the food, and the comfort of the hotel, I am sure that Echaurren will enjoy a steep rise in popularity, and it is not to be missed if you are anywhere in Northern Spain.
Stayed August 2009, travelled with friends