Though Lumpini Park and Chulalongkorn University’s ponds get some Loy Krathong action, the best place to witness banditry is the busy Saphan Taksin pier.
The bandits there leave little money for the river goddess. They furiously snatch up krathongs, fingers rifling through orchids, sparklers and bits of ceremonially clipped hair or fingernails –- all to find one or two coins.