Muted colors and understated décor don’t do much to promote the dishes at Silk Road. The kitchen compensates by playing it straight and dishing out a raft of traditional Cantonese standbys ranging from baked beef with ginger to claypot-cooked seafood to snow fish in soy sauce. Their lunchtime dim sum reveal tiny explosions of flavor, particularly in the plump hakaw and the meaty shu mai. Boost the dim sum experience by eating these bite-sized dumplings with Silk Road’s fried rice with abalone.