that was then. fortunately, a new kind of travel is now in fashion. today's tourists are leaving the high-rise hotels and european comforts. instead they are looking for more authentic experiences, on the wild coast of south africa,young tourists ride horses on unspoilt beaches and make their way through hills of subtropical vegetation. in the evening they sit round the fire and eat a traditional xhosa meal of meat and vegetables; they listen to the local xhosa people tell folk stories, before going to bed in simple tents and lodges. the experience is not offered by an international tour operator but by the xhosa themselves. the xhosa tour guides are paid two and a half times the average rate of pay.