RICCARDO TISCI'S FIRST HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION
07.07.2005
RETURNING TO THE FOUNDATIONS WHICH MADE THE HOUSE A NAME RECOGNIZED THROUGHOUT THE WORLD, GIVENCHY PRESENTS ITS HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION FOR FALL WINTER 2005 AT ITS HEART ON AVENUE GEORGE V.
AFTER DELVING DEEP INTO THE RICH AND DETAILED GIVENCHY ARCHIVES, RICCARDO TISCI REFOUND THE CODES OF THE HOUSE. WHAT HE FOUND THERE LED HIM TO REALISE HE SHARED CERTAIN ATTRACTIONS. LIKE M. DE GIVENCHY HE LOVES BLACK, LEATHER AND MATTE, JUST BRIGHTENED WITH A CERTAIN DISTINCTIVE ELEMENT. HIS IMMENSE RESPECT FOR THE GIVENCHY HISTORY LED HIM TO REWORK THESE CODES FOR A MODERN WOMAN WITH A NEW IRONIC APPROACH TO COUTURE WITH AN EMPHASIS ON SEPARATES.
THE JEAN COCTEAU FILM, ‘LA BELLE ET LA BÈTE’ ALSO PARTOOK IN TISCI’S INSPIRATION. ALTHOUGH THE COLLECTION IS TYPICAL GIVENCHY MATTE BLACK THERE ARE DRAMATIC DETAILS VIA THE USE OF COLOR, EXOTIC FEATHERS AND SKINS, AND TARNISHED STONES AND METALs NUDE NEUTRAL TONES FROM WHITES AND CREAMS TO INTENSE TONES OF VIOLET, DAMSON AND ELECTRIC BLUE, THROUGH TO THE DARKEST BLACK CAN BE SEEN THROUGHOUT. ROMANTIC DRAPERIES, WORN AWAY FABRICS AND A FOCUS ON THE BACK SHOWS THE FILMS’ INFLUENCE.
THE COLLECTION IS VERY RICH IN PLEATS AND DRAPES AND EMBELLISHMENTS SUCH AS EMBROIDERIES, “TROMPE L’OEIL” EFFECTS, AND ASYMMETRIC LINES HIGHLIGHTS THE GIVENCHY HAUTE COUTURE CRAFTSMANSHIP. EXTRAVAGANT HEADPIECES IN SUPER SLICK PLEXIGLASS ELONGATE THE SHARP, DRAMATIC SILHOUETTES.
ON THE EVE OF HIS HAUTE COUTURE DEBUT, RICCARDO TISCI EXPLAINED: ‘WHAT I WANT TO DO, ACTUALLY, IS TO CONTINUE WITH THE HUBERT DE GIVENCHY SPIRIT TRANSLATED FOR TODAYS MODERN WOMAN’.
@FREDERIQUE DUMOULIN