My late grandmother once remarked that an egg yolk from a Khai Khem Chaiya ('Chaiya salted egg') was as round and radiant as the sun during summertime.
The flavor is truly second to none, and is definitely distinctive when compared with preserved duck eggs produced elsewhere. Throughout her life, my grandmother would only purchase salted eggs produced in Surat Thani's Chaiya district, shunning any other form, no matter where they were sourced.
A traditional approach
Chaiya, a district of the southern province, is about 68 kilometers from Muang district and takes about one hour to reach by car.
In the distant past, the only way to purchase salted duck eggs from Chaiya was to travel all the way to the district as production remained fairly limited until recently.
The preservation of duck eggs is actually fairly common across the continent, and the easiest way to preserve them was to treat them with salt before covering them in a layer of mud of clay.
Salted eggs these days are a common sight in Thailand. They're usually boiled or fried and used as a side dish, accompanying rice and other dishes. In terms of production, you can certainly say that preserved duck eggs represent another form of valuable folk wisdom. This is particularly true of salted eggs produced in Chaiya district, which are well known throughout the kingdom. Indeed, they have become a leading product under the One Tambon, One Product (OTOP) program.
Handle with care
Firstly, the largest duck eggs are separated from the smaller examples. The next part of the process is particularly significant and can be considered to be a large part of the 'secret' to producing them.
Locals gather soil from nearby termite hills, which is said to posses high levels of sulphate when compared with regular soil. This rich, earthy soil is then thoroughly sieved in order to remove large pieces of gravel, then mixed with water and salt into a sticky, clay-like material. Later, the salted eggs are covered with ash from burned husks. This process is widely credited with producing the eggs' distinct flavors.
Perfection, perfectly preserved
Once packaged, the eggs are good for frying for a period of three to seven days, while they are suitable for boiling after 10 to 15 days.
One pack containing 40 Chaiya salted eggs costs between 140-160 baht (US$ 4.20-4.82). Kept in the fridge, these eggs can last for up to a month.
To illustrate just how unique Chaiya salted eggs taste, I can reveal that I'm able to differentiate between them and salted eggs produced elsewhere simply by closing my eyes and tasting them. It's not just that they taste superb, but also the rather chewy texture of the yolk and the 'just so' level of saltiness that sets Chaiya salted eggs apart from any attempts at competition.
You 'live and learn'
When I was young, I thought my grandmother must have been a rather fussy eater, but, on reflection, I can now understand that she was simply very discerning and able to recognize great quality when she came across it.
Nowadays, there's a large number of enterprises producing salted duck eggs in Chaiya district. This means that, fortunately, they are now widely available nationwide, so everyone can enjoy them without having to travel very far.