1... GO UNDERGROUND
Most tourists visit Tokyo as part of a longer Japan holiday. The city can overwhelm if you arrive jetlagged from the airport. Best save it to last, when you can take it on, fresh and revived. Tokyo is beyond big. Think of it is as a series of smaller cities joined up, each with a station five times the size of a London terminus. With a good guidebook (see also gotokyo.org) and help from the hotel concierge, you can navigate the vast train and underground network by yourself. Or join other guests and hire a guide. Don't take a coach trip: you'll miss the buzz, and the fabled commuter show - trains packed with oceans of impeccably dressed office workers.