From those early heretical spectacles in deconsecrated churches, religiosity has always been a McQueen signature, but Sarah Burton added extraordinary new layers with her pre-fall collection for the label. For anyone not versed in the intricacies of Anglican worship, all one needed to know was that Burton wanted to evoke the humility and purity of low-church Anglicanism, rather than its incense-and-ritual high-church counterpart. Hence, the dusty, frayed quality of a bonded velvet coat-dress, whose silhouette recalled the cassock of a humble parish priest. Or the penitential quality of a pintucked shirtdress in plain white cotton. Or even the way that a white capelet laid over a black velvet column looked like a nun's wimple. And the big Puritan buckles on the footwear were perfectly suited to Pilgrim mothers.