Filter size
Taking retention times and flow rates into consideration, when it comes to choosing the right filter size, there are two important but conflicting factors:
• the right filter retention time, which ensures all the required biological activity occurs,
• brisk water flow to prevent a high pond ammonia level.
If we decide that a flow-rate of say 10,000 litres per hour (2,200 gal/hour) and a filter retention time of 10 minutes are required then the volume of
="" ="" water="water" in="in" contact="contact" with="with" the="the" filter="filter" media="media" at="at" any="any" time="time" will="will" need="need" to="to" be;10,000/60 (minutes) x 10 (minutes retention time) = 1666 litres or 1.6m3.
="" ="" water="water" in="in" contact="contact" with="with" the="the" filter="filter" media="media" at="at" any="any" time="time" will="will" need="need" to="to" be;This means that the filter should be able to hold 1.6 m3 of water after it is filled with media. This is in addition to settlement and spaces below the media trays. The required size of filter will then depend on the media used. Using a high-void medium, such as matting or plastic, we would need a little over 1.6 m="" 3 of media to compensate for the small amount of water displacement, whereas, with a solid medium, we might need at least 3m3 to ensure the same volume of water in contact with the media after displacement.
="" ="" water="water" in="in" contact="contact" with="with" the="the" filter="filter" media="media" at="at" any="any" time="time" will="will" need="need" to="to" be;Although this may seem complex, these are the factors which need to be considered to avoid some of the most common filtration problems which often beset koi-keepers - namely, fluctuating water quality, high levels of opportunistic micro-organisms and excessive algal growth.
="" ="" water="water" in="in" contact="contact" with="with" the="the" filter="filter" media="media" at="at" any="any" time="time" will="will" need="need" to="to" be;The size of a filtration system becomes more critical as stocking level, and thereby feeding rates, increase. Even when no new fish are added, the continued growth of the existing pond occupants will gradually increase the demand on filter performance.
Ideally, what we want is a fairly brisk flow-rate, turning over the pond volume every 1 to 3 hours (depending on feeding and stocking rate) but at the same time a slow, almost imperceptible flow through the filter, allowing sufficient time for the various important biological processes to occur. Water passing through the filter should be in contact with the filter media, and therefore the biofilm, for at least ten minutes, possible longer.
Other considerations
After all this discussion on retention times, flow-rates and filter media, it is worth considering some other salient aspects of filter design. Most purpose-made, retail filter units are practical and well designed but I have to say that some are pretty poor, for the following reasons.
• Apart from overall filter size, which we have already discussed, another important aspect is shape and water transfer between the chambers. There is little point in having several cubic metres of expensive filter medium if it is not properly utilised. The design of a filter system should be such that water passes evenly through all of the media and not just at one end or through the centre.
•
Ideally, transfer ports should be the full width of the chamber; otherwise there will be a tendency to create a narrow channel of water flowing into the next chamber, leading to 'dead' spots within the chamber. Square chambers are not the most efficient, giving little water flow in the comers. This drawback has been overcome in some cases by the used of curved or circular chambers, giving a more effective 'working' area within the chamber. With careful design it is also possible to create a swirling motion as water is transferred from one chamber to the next. This helps avoid dead spots, giving an even flow through the media and, to a lesser degree, will help settle some of the finer solids.
Just as important in filter design is ease and efficiency of maintenance. The best design is for each filter chamber to have a bottom-drain for easy cleaning, and the base should be benched or sloped towards the drain. Regular flushing of the bottom drain in each chamber will help clear away fine solids; and periodic cleaning of chambers by emptying them and flushing the media with pond water will prevent a build-up of unwanted mulm and other organic debris.