Even before the trial begins, there’s reason to suspect that the first two label designs paint with too broad a brush by attempting to encapsulate complicated (and sometimes debatable) information into a single grade. The last two have more promise, presenting information that in the U.S., for example, is available only in small print on the back of a package. Politicians and food companies make a reasonable case that the labeling systems are biased against products with healthful fats such as olive oil, nuts, and fish. And some watchdog groups complain that industry representatives were too much involved in designing the labels. But France should be applauded for trying to find the best possible way to inform consumers about what they eat. It will become a European Union lab for innovation on nutrition, at least for a couple of months.