First come the high, clear notes of a ceremonial trumpet, then the Buddhist pilgrims? move toward the sound. The sun has set behind the mountains over Thimphu, capital of the Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan, and the day's final ritual is set to begin. Along the edges of the crowd stand peasants, some of whom have taken three days to get here from their remote villages. For many, this is their first visit to the big city likely the only capital in the world without a single traffic light. A group of Buddhist monks,a arms linked and wearing wine-colored robes, has assembled in the central plaza. Everyone presses forward to get a look at a small boy, dressed in cool, urban clothing, standing in the center of the circle.